Can I shoot/collaborate with you?
In the past, this question was something an agent would field for me, but as an academic and lecturer, I want to embrace the spirit of transparency and explain how this works. I haven't completely halted my shoots, and I still do 1-2 fashion shoots a year with my students as workshops and a couple of personal shoots for my PhD studies.
I work part-time on my PhD as a researcher and part-time as a Senior Lecturer teaching photography. Both jobs inevitably end up equating to way more than a full-time job; my time to do commissions is nonexistent. The few jobs I take on are made in holidays between academic terms and sometimes take a while to complete. This is compounded by the fact that my practice is extremely costly. The cost of the chemicals, paper, film and camera insurance is considerably high without factoring in my day and post-production rates. This means I only tend to shoot when a really interesting fashion or advertising campaign comes along or if I need to or for the university I teach at. That said, occasionally, you'll see some new shoots pop up on my Instagram feed. This is because around 1-2 times a year, as mentioned, I will bring in brands with interesting sculptural statement garments to teach my students how to shoot editorially. I tend to approach the brands directly or know them personally because bringing new people into a university setting is sensitive; I need to know them and know they are trustworthy on a first-hand basis.
Tl;dr: The short answer to this question is, possibly, yes, if you are a renowned fashion brand, stylist, magazine, institution, or museum, and it must be during May-September (summer holidays). The budget for the shoot must cover all my outgoing costs and day rates; this will include the shoot day rates and pre and post-production rates.
Do you shoot weddings?
I'm sorry to say I'm not good at weddings, it's not my bag, and when I do shoot, I tend only to shoot fashion or advertising campaigns.
Can I use your shoot in my magazine/zine or album/LP cover?
Some images can be licenced, but most are associated with an editorial/client already, and placing them again is inappropriate or not contractually viable; feel free to enquire, but free usage isn't fair to the model in the image or me; a licence will pay for both me and the model's fee.
Can I model for you?
I approach models for the occasional jobs mentioned above when they arise. Still, I only arrange a few such situations yearly, and it tends to be with someone I already know because bringing people into my place of work is sensitive. I need to know the person or their agency well, and like I say these days, I don't tend to shoot outside of those situations due to time restraints.
Can I assist and or do a placement with you?
My workflow changed so much that I no longer have the infrastructure for assisting, placements or internships. Regarding my shoots, it’s just me, and I haven't had an assistant for many years, not since I left the agency I was with back in 2013. If and when I take on a well-paid job, I will take on one of my current students as an assistant, and I approach them as I like to know someone and their abilities first-hand well before being on a professional shoot with them.
What cameras do you use?
I use a Hasselblad, Mamiya RZ67, Nikon F2, Leica M6, Minolta XD7, Olympus OM10, Contax G2, Fujifilm GA645, Yashica Matt, MPP MK8 and many more.
How do you process your work?
These days I get the films developed in a lab, I prefer Labyrinth in Bethnal Green, London, and I print my work by hand in my darkroom, often making my chemicals. Some of the work is made with the photogravure technique too.
Do you have a digital camera?
I bought a Fuji X-Pro2 to use for snaps in my PhD, and it’s so much fun, and as I teach with digital cameras, I’m also proficient with PhaseOne and Hasselblad camera systems as well as Canon cameras.
What's your area of academic study?
I study darkroom methods and techniques in post-war fashion images; my PhD is specifically about a genre of melancholic fashion photography typified by Deborah Turbeville.
Do you offer workshops to the public or any mentoring scheme?
I would consider this in the future, but I cannot currently offer this due to work and study commitments elsewhere.
Can I visit your studio? Do you have studio open-days?
I work between London and Norfolk, UK, my studio is at OUTPOST studios in Norfolk, and my place of work is Ravensbourne University, London. Neither my studio nor my place of work are open to the public; they are private workspaces.
Who is your dream client?
Yohji Yamamoto or Rei Kawakubo.
Me teaching a photography workshop at my place of work in March 2023.